Final Finishing of Bobbin Lace

Possible final adjustments - stiffening of the baton lace

Roman Schmock - October 7, 2024
Sekce

    Final Finishing of Bobbin Lace

    Bobbin lace requires careful final finishing to ensure its beauty and stability. It’s not always just about stiffening – several factors influence the method of finishing:

    • Lace material (cotton, linen, silk, etc.)
    • Intended use (clothing, decoration, jewelry, etc.)
    • Combination with other materials (metal, paper, glass, etc.)
    • Presentation and shape stability (framed artwork, three-dimensional application, etc.)

    It is essential to finish the lace correctly after many hours of work; otherwise, it could be damaged quickly.

    Important Notice

    Before starting to make lace, it is important to prepare the pricking or template to ensure it doesn’t stain or stick to the lace during stiffening. One option is to cover it with cellophane or transparent adhesive tape. Everyone has their preferred method.

    How to Properly Finish Hand-Made Bobbin Lace

    Each lace is unique and requires an individual approach. The final finish of the lace depends on:

    1. Material – Cotton, linen, or silk require different stiffening and finishing methods.
    2. Intended use – Decorative lace for clothing will need different care than framed lace or jewelry.
    3. Combination with other materials – If the lace is combined with other materials, such as metal, glass, beads, or natural stones, extra care is needed. Some materials, such as beads or stones, could be damaged by improper stiffening. For example, some lacquers or stiffeners could damage the surface of beads or cause stones to become dull, so it is important to choose methods that won’t react negatively with these materials.

    The final finish must always be done carefully and based on knowledge of the materials.

    Recommendations Before Finishing

    Before any treatment (especially stiffening), I recommend doing a test on a small piece of lace made from the same material. This will ensure that the chosen method doesn’t damage your lace.

    Methods for Finishing Bobbin Lace

    1. Ironing

    I always recommend this step. Use a damp cotton or linen cloth (not wet) placed over the lace and iron it. Never use synthetic materials or printed cloths, as they could stain the lace. Pins can damage the iron, so the cloth protects both the lace and the iron. Avoid using a steamer, as the threads need to “lie flat” and set.

    2. Hairspray

    Using hairspray is a simple and often-used method for stiffening, especially for lace pictures. Apply the hairspray before removing the pins, but be mindful of the amount. I recommend using cheap hairsprays without nourishing ingredients (e.g., natural proteins), as these can cause the lace to yellow over time.

    3. Perchlorethylene + Polystyrene

    Warning:

    Perchlorethylene is harmful to health and the environment, so it’s necessary to work in a well-ventilated area and follow safety precautions. However, in small amounts, this method is used safely.

    Preparing the Solution:

    1. Pour a small amount of perchlorethylene into a jar with a tight-fitting lid.
    2. Gradually add polystyrene and stir with a wooden stick until the polystyrene dissolves more slowly and residue begins to remain. The mixture should have a thicker liquid consistency.

    Application of Stiffener

    Apply the solution using a soft brush or cotton swab to the lace – dabbing, not brushing. It’s important for the stiffener to soak into the threads without running. If the lace is combined with other materials, like beads, metal, or stones, take extra care. Avoid direct contact between the stiffener and these materials to prevent damage (e.g., dulling of beads or damage to stone surfaces).

    For beginners:

    1. Apply a thin layer of stiffener first and let it dry slightly.
    2. Once the first layer has settled, gently apply another layer of stiffener.
    3. Allow the lace to dry completely before removing the pins.

    Shaping: If you need to shape the lace (for brooches, flowers, or other 3D applications), remove the pins before the stiffener is fully dry. Carefully shape the lace to your desired form. I recommend trying this process on a small piece of lace first to gauge the drying and hardening time.

    Conclusion

    The final finishing of lace is a crucial step that can highlight the beauty and uniqueness of your work. Always proceed with consideration for the material and purpose of the lace, and don’t forget to test methods beforehand. This article will be updated with more methods, including the use of dispersion varnishes based on vinyl-acetate polymer.